In the September issue of Robb Report, Roger Morris shares some of his impressions from a barrel tasting of the 2007 vintage in Bordeaux (see “Blanc Check,” page 124). He was particularly taken by the white wines of Médoc, which, he notes, are less well known than their counterparts in Graves. While the 2007 vintage has yet to be released, seekers of superb sauvignon blanc-based wines from both regions may treat their palates to these fine whites from the 2005 and 2006 vintages, now currently available. (Prices listed are market estimates; actual prices will vary by region and retailer.)
Médoc
Aile d’Argent 2005 Bordeaux Blanc ($90)
A rich vanilla-flavored confection topped with a tropical mix of pineapple, mango, and ripe green apple, this spectacular white treats the taste buds to an extended and entertaining finish.
Blanc de Lynch-Bages 2006 Bordeaux Blanc ($65)
A tour de force of wine making, this white from Médoc possesses as dense a structure as most red wines. Fragrant citrus notes define the nose, while crisp green apple and toasted brioche flavors delight the palate.
Château Cos-d’Estournel Bordeaux Blanc 2005 ($250)
This white from St.-Estèphe departs from the typically crisp citrus-dominated flavor profile of most white Bordeaux, offering instead an unctuous medley of melon, ripe figs, and stone fruit.
Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux 2005 ($125)
This white offering from the premier estate in Margaux is substantial by any standard. Cool mineral essences tingle on the nose, mingling with citrus and apple scents. In the mouth, the wine is rich with vanilla cream.
Graves
Château Bouscaut 2006 Pessac-Léognan Blanc ($40)
This white’s nose is redolent with the scent of fresh lime blossoms and cool, wet granite. A bracing burst of white peach and green apple greets the palate, resolving in a lengthy mineral finish.
Domaine de Chevalier 2006 Pessac-Léognan Blanc ($95)
This dense white offers up a complex blend of lemon cream, pear, fresh honey, and vanilla ice cream.
Château Haut-Brion 2006 Pessac-Léognan Blanc ($550)
Perhaps the most complex and intricately structured white wine from Bordeaux, this powerhouse exudes flavors of ripe pineapple, kiwi, fresh peach, vanilla bean, and toast.
Château Pape Clément 2006 Pessac-Léognan Blanc ($230)
This white Bordeaux exhibits a nose of lemon cream and a flavor profile loaded up with green apple and tropical fruit.
