Icons & Innovations: Brioni: Jacket Required
Brioni’s experimentation with jacket design dates to the 1950s, when it introduced the Ordine Dorico, or columnar look, which became the first of a generation of long, side-vented, narrow-waisted sport coats. The brand’s 17-pocket travel jacket proved to be three decades ahead of its time: Brioni introduced it in 1968, and it has been widely copied in recent years. And the 1980s-era double-breasted yachtsman’s coat made of alpaca added a dash of tailored elegance to the wardrobes of boating enthusiasts. These and other ingenious jacket models embody the type of innovative ideas and novel details that are characteristic of Brioni’s suits.
Brioni’s latest brainchild, Jackets of Pleasure, will debut this spring. This series of custom-made sport coats pays homage to pursuits and pastimes such as writing, painting, and gardening. “These are jackets that the Brioni gentleman would wear when he’s doing something for pleasure, like gardening or cooking at home for friends,” says chief executive Umberto Angeloni, who consulted with three-Michelin-star chefs, world-class artists, and best-selling authors for design guidance. “We sought their expertise in regards to the shoulder of the coat, the length, all the special gimmicks—pockets, trimmings, and reinforcements—that would make sense if a man were going to wear one of these jackets as a professional.”
Although each of the seven styles in the collection has a distinct prototype, Angeloni says that every piece will be custom-made using the client’s choice of fabric and details, making each one unique. “There is irony in doing a layman’s job as a hobby, for pleasure,” he says, “and wearing a jacket that will cost $4,000 while you’re doing it.”