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Robb Design Portfolio: Rolling Stones

Jill Newman

Moving designs from Mattia Cielo.

Movement gives jewelry a soul; it brings it to life," says Mattia Cielo, a jeweler based in Vicenza, Italy, whose kinetic designs enable shapes formed of rigid gold and gemstones to move easily with the body. A gold-coil necklace, for instance, wraps sinuously around the neck, while the stones of a pendant necklace bounce on the ends of tiny springs. "The designs evoke a curiosity," says Jodi Kaplan, vice president of jewelry and watches at Bergdorf Goodman (800.558.1855), which debuted Cielo’s latest pieces—priced from $5,500 to $54,600—in the spring. Kaplan particularly admires the pendant. "One wonders why the stones seem to be dancing," she says. "Only upon closer inspection [does one] notice the dozens of tiny springs that
hold each stone, allowing them to move independently of each other." Such close-ups also reveal Cielo’s sense of proportion and modern form, which derives from his abiding interest in architecture and industrial design; the layered domes of one ring in the collection bring to mind those of the Sydney Opera House.

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