After more than two decades in business, a slew of beloved cookbooks in its name, and a host of successful alumni like Jamie Oliver and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall spreading its gospel, Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers’ pivotal modern trattoria is as good as ever. Simple Italian food that celebrates its seasonal ingredients is the focal point, so you can expect a large selection of handmade pastas, lovingly prepared whole fish or game, and bountiful salumi and formaggi. Specialties: Spaghetti with arugula, tomato, anchovy, chili, and marjoram; wood-roasted fish.
