August 5, 2008
Leather Permitting
For the last 15 years, tucked away in a discreet studio in Orange County, California, George Esquivel has been providing a European-style bespoke men’s shoe service that not only offers customized handmade footwear, but also has a wide selection of stylish designs. Esquivel’s latest collection features a calfskin leather shoe designed to give the appearance of true shell cordovan ―a hard, stiff leather made from the back of a horse and used to construct men’s shoes for centuries―but without the usual breaking-in process required of genuine cordovan leather. The shoe, which is accented with soft matte alligator swatches along the sides, is $2,800 for custom-made orders. The shoemaker has also created a limited edition of ready-to-wear calfskin models (that appear like shell cordovan) for $1,900, available at Douglas Fir in Los Angeles and Rubenstein’s in New Orleans. (714.670.2200, www.esquivelshoes.com)
—Alexandra Foster
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July 22, 2008
Looking Like Maverick
MODO eyewear company has partnered with NetJets private aviation carrier to design a collection of sunglasses specifically with pilots in mind. The lenses reflect and contrast colors at a particularly high chronic definition, helping ease the strain on pilots’ eyes while flying. The MODO for NetJets collection includes two limited-edition lightweight titanium and gold-plated styles for $650. The sunglasses were unveiled on July 1 at select sunglass boutiques as well as at MODO’s first store, which opened in June on Mott Street in New York. (www.modo.com)
—Alexandra Foster
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July 8, 2008
Sneaker Peak
In their goal to develop more comfortable dress footwear, men’s shoemakers began creating leather dress loafers with rubber soles typically found on sport shoes. For fall, Ermenegildo Zegna is taking that concept to the next comfort level by creating a hybrid shoe that functions like a slipper but wears like a sneaker. The Italian clothier’s new Globe Trotter is, in fact, two shoes in one: a soft travel slipper made of a proprietary lightweight fabric that easily slips like a sock inside a rubber-soled cycling sneaker and is held in place by two Velcro buckles. The black dual-purpose shoe, which retails for $395, comes with one of three colored slipper choices―jet black, urban orange, or sporty silver―and debuted in select Ermenegildo Zegna shops worldwide in June. (888.880.3462, www.zegna.com)
—William Kissel
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June 24, 2008
A Taste of Italy
Since launching his signature clothing house in Florence, Italy, in 1988, Michele Negri’s stylish, colorful yet classically tailored fashions have had a loyal American following. After 20 years in business, Negri has finally opened his first U.S. boutique on Madison Avenue in New York to serve his American patrons. The shop features Negri’s signature Neapolitan-cut suits with distinctive stitch work and additional ticket pocket similar to those cut on Savile Row. “My father always had an affection for Neapolitan tailoring, especially from brands like Kiton and Isaia,” says Gian Luigi Negri, Negri’s son with wife and business partner Patrizia Beltrami, of the Beltrami shoe family. Though Negri’s designs go beyond the traditional says his son, who runs the U.S. business: His newest Italian-made blazers are un-constructed and cut razor thin. (212.212.988.8804, www.michelenegri.com)
―William Kissel
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June 10, 2008
Our Man Bixby
Andre Benjamin, also known as Andre 3000 from the hip-hop group OutKast, has always had a singular sense of style. His distinctive fashion approach even earned the Grammy-winning musician the title of best-dressed man in Esquire magazine a few years back. Now Benjamin is introducing his alter ego, a fashion designer of “rough luxury” named Benjamin Bixby, whose debut fall 2008 collection of polo shirts, varsity knits, tweed trousers, and corduroy sport coats were inspired by documentary college sports footage from the 1930s. However, the Bixby brand, available through Barneys New York this fall, is not just a collection of chic throwbacks to menswear’s golden past. Nor is it just another line of celebrity-endorsed clothing. Most of the pieces, including long wool duffel coats, carefully fitted double-breasted cashmere blazers, club-collar cotton dress shirts, and high-waisted wool herringbone trousers, incorporate rich historical fabrics and precision hand tailoring for a thoroughly modern approach to old-world style. (available through Marvin Traub & Associates, 646.723.2990)
–William Kissel
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May 27, 2008
All Aboard
Clothing makers often reference designs from the 1930s and 1940s as a way of holding on to the golden age of menswear. But in creating his new Voyager collection of luggage and leather goods, Arkansas-based designer Martin Dingman found inspiration in the glory days of train travel. "I wanted to recall when people owned the beautiful hard-sided luggage and had porters available to carry it for them," says Dingman, who updated the look in lightweight, polyurethane-coated cotton canvas to accommodate modern travel. Each made-to-order bench-made shaving valet, duffle, attaché, briefcase, and carry-on trolley, priced from $650 to $3950, will be made in a limited edition of 50 per item. The collection features a discrete orange and brown stripe reminiscent of those found on antique steamers of yesterday, and soon the stripe will find its way on the designer's deerskin and bridle leather belts and footwear as well. Voyager pieces are available through Martin Dingman trunk shows (see schedule online at www.martindingman.com).
-William Kissel
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May 13, 2008
Davi’s Skin Care Harvest
The name Mondavi is synonymous with California wines, and now it’s making its mark in luxury skin care. Davi was established last year by Carlo Cesare Robert Mondavi, the grandson of Robert Mondavi, who founded the wine brand in 1966. Staying true to his family heritage, the skin-care products are made from a blend of natural ingredients that include by-products of the winemaking process. During fermentation, a by-product is produced containing polyphenols, a naturally occurring antioxidant that is believed to combat free radicals that cause aging. This derivative is combined with grape and fermented wine extracts, green tea, raspberry, black currant, and bilberry extracts among other ingredients to create what Davi has coined Meritage, which is at the core of all its products, including Le Grand Cru cream for men and women, $175 (shown). (310.827.0800, www.daviskin.com)
―Jill Newman
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April 29, 2008
All SEWed Up
“I think men’s custom clothing has become too sterile,” says Scott Evan Wasserberger from his downtown New York shop SEW, an acronym for his initials. Having worked in custom clothing for 22 years, beginning as an apprentice at his grandfather’s tailor shop in Brooklyn, Wasserberger is looking to infuse more style into custom clothing with SEW. Located on Mott Street in Little Italy, the boutique has the feel of a 19th-century atelier, yet both Wasserberger and his father, Artie, keep up with the latest trends in men’s fashion to provide clients with more than just well-made clothing. Among the most popular items are made-to-measure shirts, which start around $350 for a minimum order of two, depending on the fabric. Clients are measured then select from bolts of textiles in the back of the shop that range from argyle and plaid to linen and houndstooth. Wasserberger’s choice for a must-have item? The wine-colored French velvet smoking jacket with a satin collar ($1,750) ― just the item to make Hugh Hefner green with envy. (212.686.1630)
―Alexandra Foster
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April 15, 2008
A Cool Revolution
Even when the Mediterranean heat soars upward of 100 degrees, many style-conscious Italians will keep their jackets on. Now with the introduction of Isaia’s new jacket, the Sailor, summer style aficionados can maintain the elegance of the sport coat while staying comfortably cool. Isaia achieves this feat by crafting the Sailor out of its fine, light shirt fabric, while maintaining the same elements of construction in traditional Isaia jackets. Two vent belts on the inside of this super-light jacket enhance the illusion that the wearer is sporting a heavier coat and make this garment appropriate for either the beach or the boardroom. Starting at $1,295, the Sailor is available in stores in several fabrics but is also available made-to-measure in any of Isaia’s 500 fabric choices. (888.996.7555, www.isaia.it)
―Daniel Curtis
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April 1, 2008
The Horsey Set
In honor of the 75th anniversary of the prestigious Piazza di Siena horse-jumping show held annually in May, Loro Piana has created a special-edition version of its best-selling Horsey jacket, which was originally designed in 1992 for the Italian equestrian team to wear during the summer Olympics in Barcelona, Spain. The updated jacket is produced in a new Microlight S3 stretch cloth treated with the Biella, Italy-based company’s patented Storm System technology that renders it both wind and rain resistant. The $1,575 blazer also comes with the owner’s name and purchase date signed on a specially designed interior label that identifies the yellow suede-trimmed navy jacket as the signature style statement of Italy’s most prestigious international equestrian event. (212.980.7961, www.loropiana.com)
―William Kissel
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March 18, 2008
In True British Style
Collectively, British designers Mark Stearn and Gary Seaward have spent nearly 50 years creating neckwear for such venerable makers as Charles Hill Silks and Jermyn Street Ties—the latter a division of the famed Turnbull & Asser, where their paths ultimately crossed. In 2002 the pair joined forces to launch their own dual signature Seaward & Stearn collection of what they consider to be the rebirth of the classic English silk necktie. Made entirely by hand from silk woven by one of the last remaining pure silk weavers in the world and printed in London’s English Peak district, known for its weaving and dying heritage, Seaward & Stearn neckwear specializes in authentic British patterns such as micro-printed neats and foulards, super rep stripes, and large, flamboyant geometric designs. The company is also reviving the 1920s-inspired seven-fold production method in which a single piece of silk is folded seven times on itself before being artfully stitched. The collection makes its U.S. debut this spring at Barneys New York, among other specialty stores. (Available through British Apparel Collection, 212.218.6520, www.vii-fold.com)
―William Kissel
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March 4, 2008
Gucci’s New Fifth Avenue Home
In February, Gucci unveiled its largest store worldwide on New York City’s fashionable Fifth Avenue. Architect James Carpenter transformed the three-level, floor-to-ceiling glass walled store at 725 Fifth Avenue into a luxurious venue equipped with a VIP lounge and fitting rooms for clients who desire discretion and privacy. To underscore Gucci’s modern collections, the brand’s creative director Frida Giannini integrated sleek Art Deco styling with Gucci’s iconic symbols, including classic materials like rosewood and marble combined with polished gold, lush fabrics, and smoke mirrors. In addition to the fresh design concept, Gucci also unveiled its Heritage collection, a series of limited- edition accessories available exclusively at the Manhattan location, in addition to seasonal designs created specifically for New York. Adjacent to store is Gucci’s first freestanding fine jewelry boutique featuring new jewelry and watch collections. (212.826.2600, www.gucci.com)
―Alyson Gerber
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February 19, 2008
Silver Streak
The celebrated Italian menswear brand Brioni has discovered its silver lining this spring with the introduction of metallic cocktail jackets woven from genuine silver and other über-luxury threads. The jackets available beginning in April by special order for $8,012, feature buttons in the same matching diamond jacquard weave. For an additional cost, clients can order solid gold and diamond buttons. The Rome-based company is also beaming with pride from its recently anointed status as world’s most prestigious luxury men’s fashion house on the 2007 Luxury Brand Status Index published by the New York-based Luxury Institute. (888.778.8775, www.brioni.com)
―William Kissel
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February 5, 2008
Sport Meets Style
As designer labels lose some of their cachet in the pursuit of a larger mass audience, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are challenging that trend with the creation of one-of-a-kind handbags, special-order crocodile briefcases, and other leather goods reserved for those who value exclusivity above all else. This spring the dynamic Italian duo is adding sneakers to its growing list of limited- edition products. The lamé and patent leather sneakers come in five fashion colors: metallic gold, bronze, and silver, as well as black and white. You’ll know if you’re wearing the real thing by the individual number stamped on the back of the shoe and by the silicon limited-edition crest embedded in the sole. The $575 sneakers, available at Saks Fifth Avenue and Dolce & Gabbana stores, also come in their own matching gold lamé box secured with a black rubber strap. (877.70.DGUSA, www.dolcegabbana.it)
―William Kissel
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January 15, 2008
Set Sail–In Style
The venerable Italian luggage firm Valextra has teamed up with renowned yacht maker German Frers to create travel pieces specifically for yacht goers. Inspired by 19th-century trunks, but designed for practicality and function, German Frers’ soft trunk ($3,480 or $4,790 for the larger version) can be dismantled and folded to optimize the limited space on a boat. The trunks and garment bag are made of a high-tech waterproof, scratch-resistant material that has the soft feel of leather. The collection is available exclusively at Valextra’s in-store shop at Barneys New York. (212. 833.2583)
―Alexandra Foster
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January 2, 2008
The Secret’s Out
For three generations, the exclusive Italian shoemaker Bontoni was one of the best-kept secrets in the Marche region of Italy: Clients required a personal introduction to the family to gain access to the bespoke footwear. Now, the brand’s limited-edition ready-made shoes are available at Bergdorf Goodman Men, among other specialty boutiques. The footwear styles, which range in price from $995 to $1,400, are inspired by Italy’s iconic jet-set era of the 1960s. Even the ready-made styles portray the same handmade qualities evident in the made-to-measure styles—unique, hand-painted leathers and hand-finished details. Still, the ultimate experience is a visit to the workshop in Italy where craftsmen measure and build shoes around an individual client’s needs and desires for $4,500 to $12,000, depending upon the leathers and style. (www.bontoni.com, +39.335.495.282)
—Aly Gerber
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December 11, 2007
Marc’s Shady Characters
Luxury eyewear designer Robert Marc is paying homage to the glamour of classic film noir screen stars with his new limited edition Crocodile Collection. The men’s and women’s crocodile sunglasses are updated with contemporary details to modernize the look, while the bold lines and strong angles recall the Expressionist influences of the era. Crocodile skins wrap around Marc’s trademark hinge and come in a variety of color palettes to satisfy any fashion whim—for $695 a pair. (212.675.5200, www.robertmarc.com)
—Alexandra Foster
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December 4, 2007
The Hat that Makes the Man
In January, Michael Harris, owner and internationally renowned craftsman of Paul’s Hat Works in San Francisco, will be celebrating the shop’s 90th anniversary. With all the highs and lows in fashion over the 90 years the shop has been in business, one thing remains constant: Men love their Panama hats. Handwoven in Ecuador using the finest straw, each Panama style takes up to a year to finish. “These are old traditions,” Harris says. “We employ the same tools and methods used in the 19th century and guarantee you will not find hats like these anywhere in the world.” The traditional Panamas range in price from $500 to several thousand dollars, and have been the shop’s signature product since it was established in 1918. Harris, who acquired the shop in 1980, also offers an assortment of custom fur and felt hats, including a beaver-fur style. The felt fedoras, he says, can get wet, rolled up in a suitcase, or even run over by a car, but they will never lose their shape. The hats are guaranteed to last a lifetime, and whatever the shape, style, or material, the head beneath is sure to be held high. (415.221.5332, www.paulshatworks.com) —Bailey S. Barnard
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November 1, 2007
Paul Stuart has Fun with Phineas Cole
The 70-year-old classic menswear collection Paul Stuart is showing its cheeky side with unexpected elements like playful quotes on bright-colored suit linings in its new Phineas Cole collection. “It’s not a crime to be well-dressed” is splashed on the concealed lining of one suit. “As our customers evolve, so does Paul Stuart,” says its president Clifford Grodd. The Phineas Cole collection is tailored to the tastes of younger men seeking slimmer and trendier silhouettes including sport jackets with a fourth inside pocket to cradle an iPod or BlackBerry. The limited-edition collection, from about $100 to $2,400, will initially feature only 20 items per season. (800.678.8278, www.paulstuart.com)
—Skye Mayring
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November 1, 2007
Hennessy Heir Has a Nose for Scent
“Perfume is often used as a power of seduction,” says Kilian Hennessy, who unveiled his signature By Kilian at Bergdorf Goodman in New York. Developed by the Hennessy scion, it features six different aromas that include Egyptian geranium and orange blossom. Clients can refill their $250 perfume bottles from a fountain that resembles a cognac bottle, the only reference to Hennessy’s familial origins. (888.774.2424, www.bergdorfgoodman.com, www.bykilian.com)
—Skye Mayring
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