The Masters of Modern Jewellery—the first jewelry exhibition to open at London’s Beetles + Huxley Gallery—is showcasing 70 one-of-a-kind pieces through December 25, from some of the most esteemed jewelers in the world. Shaun Leane of London, Sevan Bıcackı of Istanbul, and the London-based newcomers Sophia Mann and Lauren Adriana are among the 25 designers chosen by the curator Joanna Hardy for their use of old-world techniques and visually engaging designs that enhance the wearer.
“There are three things I look for in a jewel: good craftsmanship, unique design, and the suggestion of movement,” says Hardy, who is a former jewelry director for Sotheby’s and currently works as a private jewelry consultant. “If a brooch is in the form of a butterfly, I want to feel like it could fly off your shoulder, or a flower that seems like it could be blowing in the breeze.”
Mann’s diamond-sapphire-and-coral beaded ring, for instance, appears to flutter around a central brown marquise diamond (approximately $3,600); and a pair of pear-shaped tourmaline earrings by Luz Camino, based in Madrid, bursts with clusters of round-cut rubies and pink and white diamonds (approximately $24,500). Additional highlights include the Jodhpur Shinkara pendant by the London-based jeweler Alice Cicolini (approximately $13,750), which features carved rock crystal and rose quartz on a necklace of freshwater pearls and pink and white sapphires; and Shaun Leane’s white-gold tassel earrings (approximately $27,500), dripping with cultured pearls and 3.29 carats of brilliant-cut white and black diamonds. (www.beetlesandhuxley.com)